Using hyperfocal focusing to maximize depth of field (DOF) is not new. As a review, DOF is a zone of acceptable sharpness in front of and behind the focused distance. When a lens is focused on infinity, the DOF extends from infinity to some point nearer the camera. (Focusing on infinity effectively “wastes” half the depth of field.) The distance from the camera to this near limit of the sharp field is called the hyperfocal distance.

If the lens is focused on the hyperfocal distance, DOF extends from half the hyperfocal distance to infinity.

Using hyperfocal, especially with wide-angle lenses, yields dramatic results. For example, with a 24mm lens at f-22, focused at 4 feet, you have sharpness from 2 feet all the way to infinity. ocus the lens manually; no autofocus!!

With older lenses, hyperfocal was easy: simply place the infinity mark on the lens above the DOF engraved mark for the f-stop being used. Unfortunately, these DOF engravings have disap­peared on most auto-focus and zoom lenses. For my classes, I needed a new way to teach hyperfocal. I found the hyper­focal formula and started computing distances for various lenses. I finally combined all this into chart form for easy use. George Lepp often mentions it in Outdoor Photographer magazine, as does Peter Burian in Shutterbug and Len Rue Jr.

Traditionally the value of the circle of confusion has been given as .025mm (.001 inch). With today’s sharper films and lenses, some authors are suggesting a smaller value be used. Also, large enlargements may require a smaller value. To be consistent with the many references, including the internet, my newest Hyperfocal Card has been calculated using the traditional value of .025mm. Keep in mind that best results are obtained with good lenses, fine-grained film and flawless technique!

Remember, DOF is a zone of acceptable sharpness; note that word acceptable! What is acceptable to you and many other factors can greatly influence results. Some photographers are content with 3x5 prints; others want 16x20 enlar­gements. What film is used? Tripod? Do you use the mirror lock-up? Cable release? How flat is the film held in the camera body? Dirty filters? Small f-stops cause a loss of resolution, due to diffraction effects.

But please don’t worry about all the math and theory; just use the card along with good technique. On the card, there are a few fractional distances listed. Ob­viously, you can not estimate these distances accurately. Rounding the fraction UP gives a slightly better result. Don't agonize, just set the distance as close as you can. Beware: don’t buy a lens that has no footage markings on the lens barrel.

On this chart, I've only included a few longer focal lengths. You soon notice Hyperfocal is not a useful technique with telephoto lenses; such lenses may have a DOF measured in mere inches!

Some other tips: if you are not happy with your results, try using one f-stop smaller than the f-stop you used to calculate the hyperfocal setting. For example, use the data from f8 on the card, but then actually take the photo at f11.

Learning to use hyperfocal settings to YOUR advantage is extremely empowering and will add drama and excitement to your images. I hope you find the chart helpful.

Be sure to read my companion article “Taming The Beast” to better understand the real value of Hyperfocal.

Digital Users: New Version 3.0 … My latest card now includes data for digital cameras using a 1.5 or 1.6x chip. This includes such popular models as Canon D30, D60, 10D, 20D;30D; all Digital Rebels; Nikon D100, D50; D200; D1X, D1H; Fuji Finepix S1 and S2, etc. Just read your focal length directly on the digital side of the chart. I have already converted for the magnification factor. For instance, a 16mm lens on my D60, at f11, is focused at 8 feet, with the DOF then extending from 4 feet to infinity.

For full-frame sensor digital cameras like the Canon 1DS, you just use the main “film” side of the chart.